May 15, 2022-Ballandra and Beyond

wingssail images fredrick roswold
Sunset in Ballandra

 

Life on Wings has been as tranquil these days as the Sea of Cortez where we’ve been cruising. We haven’t been worried by storms or rough seas; our anchorages have been calm and, since we completed our frantic race to get here back in April, have been quite pleasant so we haven’t been in a hurry to move from one to another

We’ve been in these waters before, going back more than 20 years, and we know where our favorite bay and harbors are. To those favorite places we have returned this season and when we have glided into their quiet waters we’ve just dropped our anchor and stayed. As always we’ve been awed by the majestic beauty of Baja and the peace and quiet here which surrounds us has invaded our souls and we, in turn, have become peaceful and quiet.

And that is why we came here.

Since arriving we have maintained a gentle routine which has included doing almost nothing other than taking care not to miss our daily naps.

That is not to say that we actually have been doing nothing. We’ve found boat projects to work on and we’ve made trips to town for shopping. We’ve met new friends and, when the mood strikes us, have socialized with other cruisers.

For three weeks we stayed at Caleta Ballandra, on Isla Carmen.  We sun bathed on the beach and attempted to swim in the clear waters but found it too cool. We took a tour in the dingy to another beach, our secret beach, to hike around and explore.  

Then, one day, lacking wind to sail, we motored to another favorite spot, Aqua Verde, and where we sat out a rare for this time of year weather event, a cold northerly. The harbor at Aqua Verde offers protection from northerly winds if you get there early and can find a spot. We did but we shared it with nine other boats that squeezed in after us.

wingssail images fredrick roswold
Roca Solitaria

Neither Ballandra or Aqua Verde have changed much in 22 years. In Ballandra bees are still there and still looking for water but they didn’t bother us much. In Aqua Verde there are still goats, however the lady who runs the El Faro Restaurant there told us there is less water these days and the goat herds are diminished.  We shared with her our fond memories of 25 years ago when we anchored here there were large herds of goats roaming the hillside, and how a farmer put on a banquet of barbequed goat for several cruisers, including ourselves. Her eyes brightened and a smile came to her face and while she crossed herself, she said that it had been her father who often would prepare a feast of goat for the cruisers.

Another big change is WiFi. The little store in Aqua Verde now has a satellite dish and offers WiFi, for a price. Our WiFi antenna can pick it up from where we are anchored. It’s slow, and we have to rotate the antenna when the boat swings, but it works. Back at Ballandra there was no WiFi but we had cell service from Loreto, 9 miles away, so we were able to get Internet there too.

So I guess, besides protection from winds and peace and quiet, we like to stay where we can get Internet.

Times have changed.

wingssail images fredrick roswold
Judy Waits Her Turn at Bache Ball

The next afternoon, after the winds passed from our “wind event”, we went to the beach here at Aqua Verde with several other cruisers and played Bache Ball until it got too dark. A man named Joaquin whose family has occupied that cove for more than 100 years lives in a shelter on the beach as caretaker. Apparently Bache Ball is often played on his well kept stretch of sand and he often must join in because he was clearly the best player amongst all of us.

Judy did OK, but I was the worst. I have never played Bache Ball before.

We are not watching a calendar; we have plenty of time before we need to head back to La Cruz, but we are keeping an eye on our provisions and when they get low we’ll be on the move again, to more beautiful Sea of Cortez sites, and maybe one with a good store.

Click here for more photos.

Fred & Judy, SV Wings, Mexico